The French Origins of Dessert and the Timeless Tradition of Aşure

The world of desserts is vast, flavorful, and filled with sweet stories from around the globe, but the tradition of ending a meal with dessert, as we know it today, has a deep-rooted history in France. The word "dessert" itself comes from the French verb desservir, meaning "to clear the table," symbolizing the transition from savory courses to something sweet—a delightful finale to a meal.

The earliest known use of the term "dessert" in a culinary context dates back to Le Ménagier de Paris (1393), a medieval French manuscript written as a guide for running a household. In these pages, the term was used to describe the sweetened dishes that followed a meal, giving us the first recorded glimpse into a world where sweets became an intentional part of dining.

Before this tradition blossomed in Europe, sweetened dishes had been enjoyed for centuries. One of the earliest known sweetened treats is a Turkish dish called Aşure, sometimes referred to as "Noah's pudding." This delightful dessert is a mixture of grains, beans, and fruits, embodying the richness of Eastern culinary heritage. Legends suggest that Noah prepared this dish as a celebratory feast after the ark rested on Mount Ararat, using the last of his supplies. Aşure is not only delicious but also a symbol of unity, shared among neighbors and families, much like desserts often bring people together today.

The French mastery of dessert-making eventually evolved into a sophisticated art form, with creations like éclairs, tarts, and mille-feuille gaining international fame. Their influence can be seen across the world, in everything from pastries to elegant multi-layered cakes. Yet, the beauty of French cuisine is that it didn’t just introduce elaborate techniques; it also embraced the joy of simple, comforting sweets.

As we pay homage to the origins of desserts, let's delve into a recipe for Aşure, a dessert that beautifully combines the rich textures of grains, beans, and fruits, tied together with a touch of sugar and spice. The layers of flavor in this dish echo the history of sweetened desserts, where ingredients were thoughtfully balanced to create something nourishing yet indulgent.

Aşure Recipe

Ingredients:

• 1 cup wheat berries
• 1/2 cup chickpeas
• 1 and 3/4 cups sugar
• 1/2 cup white beans
• 1/4 cup rice
• 1 cup raisin
• 1/2 cup dried fig & dried apricot, diced
• 1 tablespoon orange or lemon zest

Garnish:

• 1 teaspoon cinnamon
• 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds
• 6 fresh figs
• 1 tablespoon pepitas

Instructions:

1. Soak the ingredients: The night before, soak the wheat berries, beans, chickpeas, and raisins in separate bowls of water for at least 8 hours. This helps soften the grains and legumes for cooking.

2. Cook the wheat: Drain the soaked wheat and place it in a pot with about 6 cups of water. Bring it to a boil, skimming off any foam that forms on the surface. Lower the heat and simmer for 40 minutes, or until the wheat is tender.

3. Prepare the beans and chickpeas: Drain and cook the beans and chickpeas in a separate pot until tender.

4. Cook the rice: Rinse and drain the rice, then add it to the simmering pot of wheat. Continue cooking over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice softens and the mixture thickens to a creamy consistency.

5. Sweeten and combine: Once the wheat and rice mixture starts to resemble a creamy soup, add the sugar, cooked chickpeas, and beans. Stir gently, adding extra hot water if the mixture becomes too thick.

6. Add the zest and dried fruits: Slice or grate the orange or lemon zest and stir it into the pot, followed by the raisins, diced apricots, and dried figs. Cook for another 5 minutes, allowing the flavors to meld together.

7. Cool and serve: Remove the pot from heat and pour the mixture into small bowls. Let them cool completely, then chill in the refrigerator.

8. Garnish: Just before serving, sprinkle each bowl with cinnamon, pomegranate seeds, fresh figs, and pepitas.

Notes: If you're feeling extra indulgent, you can top your Aşure with crumbled walnuts, almonds, or any other nuts you enjoy. The balance of textures—creamy pudding, chewy fruit, and crunchy toppings—makes this dessert a true treat.

The story of dessert is one of evolution and cultural fusion, where the simplest of ingredients are transformed into something memorable. From the French tradition of clearing the table to make room for sweets, to the early joy of sweetened grains and fruits, desserts remind us that there's always something sweet waiting at the end of every journey.

_{Written by: L.R. Marshall}

_{©October 2024}